How to Make Decoupage Easter Eggs Using Spun Cotton Eggs + Fancy Rice Paper

Decoupage is one of our most favorite ways to decorate Easter eggs -- it's hands-on, fun, high impact and can be customized in unlimited ways to please even the most discerning of bunnies. Craft along as we create a set of extra fancy XL eggs using little more than rice papers, spun cotton eggs and Mod Podge. By cutting ornate rice papers into strips, we turn plain white spun cotton eggs into unexpected works of art. Display in bowls, add to Easter baskets or gift to some-bunny special. Built on our largest spun cotton egg, finished size is 3" x 2-1/4".

Supplies:

XL Spun Cotton Eggs #SC300

Assorted Rice Paper Sheets (a dozen of our favorites: PAT-133, PAT-131, PAT-233, PAT-208, PAT-140, AN-97, AW-62, TL-39, TL-40, TL-28, TL-27, TL-48)

Mod Podge (we used Matte)

Scissors (long blade and detail)

Flat Paint Brushes (small and medium)

Aluminum Foil to work over

Bottle Caps or something to dry eggs on

Template: Click here to download a free pdf of our Decoupage Eggs Template. (Print at "actual size.")

Step 1: Gather scissors and rice paper and use templates to cut rice paper into pointed strips.

To cover 1 egg requires 15 pointed strips of rice paper.

-Cut out the largest rectangle from the template and place it over a piece of rice paper. Hold pieces up to light to help select and align design placement. Cut rectangle out of desired area using long-bladed scissors. Template will fit side-to-side on most rice paper sheets, but can of course be positioned length-wise as well.

Cut rectangle into 15 strips and lay them out in order, keeping design intact. Using a smaller pair of detail scissors, cut strips into pointed pieces. Be sure to keep pieces in order.

Step 2: Test fit strips before glueing.

Get an idea for positioning and how strips will lay on the contour of the egg by test fitting the first strip. The pointed ends should slightly cover the top hole and end at the center of the egg bottom. The strip should fit smoothly against the surface of the egg with the main design focus positioned at the egg's widest mid-point.

While still holding the first strip in place, hold up the second strip and practice aligning the design at the mid-point by abutting it right up next to the first strip. Aim for no overlap at the mid-point or focal point of the design.

Smooth the 2nd strip into place and notice how overlap occurs as the strip reaches the top and bottom of the egg. This overlap is intended and a feature of applying the strips.

Step 3: Begin glueing strips.

Use a small flat brush to apply a thin layer of Mod Podge to the back of the first strip. Work over a piece of aluminum foil to contain any over-painting.

Glue strip onto egg, gently smooth and press into place. Rice paper is thin and delicate -- take care to avoid over-handling any glue-dampened rice paper in order to avoid abrading the paper's surface and muddying the design.

Step 4: Continue glueing strips.

Align and glue the second strip into place. Follow the same method to glue strips 3-14 into place.

Step 5: Determine placement and glue the last strip.

The last strip will have some overlap at the mid-point. Determine the best position and glue into place. At this point the egg should be completely covered, including the hole at the top.

Step 6: Coat egg with Mod Podge to seal.

To protect the rice paper and add depth to the design, it is important to seal the surface of the egg. Working on half the egg to make handling easier, use a medium flat brush to apply a coat of Mod Podge. Take long strokes to avoid abrading the surface of the rice paper. Let dry. Water bottle caps work well as little stands for drying and keeping eggs stationary. Coat second half and let dry.

Apply a total of 3-4 coats, allowing to dry between coats; allow to cure after final coat.

A Word About Choosing Designs:

If some designs seem intimidating to apply, consider starting with any of the blue styles shown below. The sheet on the left (PAT-208) has an illustrated look with free-flowing edges that produce a distinct front and back when applied to the egg. The front will have the floral design while the back will have a white area where pieces meet allowing for a forgiving application of the final strips.

Alternatively, the two sheets shown below right (AN-97 and AW-62) are equally forgiving to apply. As the patterns are not symmetrical, placing the finishing strips can be less precise and not impact the design.

The floral patterns below left are less free-flowing than the three styles discussed above. Instead, these designs are busier with all-over patterns and no blank areas. For the stained glass nasturtium pattern, below left (PAT-233), use its bold design as a guide, lining up stems, leaves and flowers during strip application . The purple floral, below left (PAT-140), offers a smaller and very detailed pattern that covers the egg well. Alignment is both challenging and forgiving with the busy pattern -- so many similar design points to match up, yet a beautiful result even if alignment is slightly askew.

At first glance it may seem intimidating to wrap such ornate and typically flat designs onto 3-D egg shapes, but the Italian tile patterns yield some of our most favorite results, below right (TL-39 and TL-48). Lots of geometric elements help in lining up the patterns and the finished eggs are truly exquisite.

Tips and Notes:

-- To eliminate any tackiness, apply clear acrylic sealer over fully cured Mod Podge as an optional last step. Mod Podge makes a matte clear acrylic sealer that is our go-to. Be sure to follow manufacturer's instructions as noted on product.

-- Be sure to handle wet rice paper as little as possible. The surface becomes delicate and fingertips or brush bristles can abrade the surface making the design less defined.

-- If the top hole remains exposed after applying all of the strips, a tiny coordinating piece can be cut from leftover rice paper, positioned over the hole, and glued down. The finishing coats of Mod Podge will smooth it over and make it seem unitized.

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